Hello! I’ve been walking a lot lately. In my first year here, I fell into the idea of guides – don’t go where you don’t know – but in the last month, I’ve been having wonderful adventures with Eva van der Marel, who has taught me the freedom of exploring with a map and a compass. This is a picture of the view from Qafa e Ndroqes, on the way to Curraj i Eperm (the “Lost Village” of the Malesi). We got there by following our noses, walking hard, and being intelligent – if you call it intelligent to sit out a hailstorm in the old stans you can see in the foreground, while waiting for the lightning to calm down enough to permit a bolt over the pass.