“I was trying to explain to my father, but couldn’t. All I could say was ‘Everything just feels more REAL there.’” — paraphrased from 2023 conversation with young friend who was returning for her 3rd year to visit Tropoja. I know I (Catherine) am always banging on about culture, but what do I mean, and […]
Okay! So, to continue with our ongoing “How not to do normal ‘tourism’” theme, I have had Another Thought. (Whee!). So – because we truly, truly aren’t even a little bit elitist, I was thinking – how can people without much money still come here and have a great experience, without gypping their host? WELL. […]
NB: You are about to read the following brief statement of our ethical and philosophical crisis (which led to us letting our website shut down for most of 2022), because I’ve spent great chunks of the past month TORTURING myself with trying to write it out – volumes and screeds have been written (I mean, […]
“Nature is inescapably harsh, relentless and ruthless. She has certainly never wept in sympathy, nor stretched a hand protectively over even the most beautiful or innocent of her creatures.” “. . . nature guards the way to death with pain.” — Eugene Marais, The Soul of the White Ant I used to think, in a […]
Five o’clock on a sticky Friday afternoon. Bajram Curri is still snoozing in afternoon siesta mode. And suddenly the booming of a tupan crashes through the air. BOOM BOOM boomboomboomboomboom! We were just slowly gathering things to start heading home – and let this not give you the wrong impression: We do NOT keep normal […]
Albania has a new initiative – something to do with illegal immigrants. Typically for Albania, instead of actually going to look for illegal people (How would you find them? Who knows who’s illegal? Illegal people look just like anyone else! ARE like anyone else. And as they’re illegal, there’s no way to track or find […]
Sadik yells. Everything that comes out of his mouth, good or bad, seems to be constructed entirely of large capital letters, followed by numerous exclamation marks. On the rare occasions when you can make him understand that you’d really like him to stop yelling, he then falls into a sort of continuous stream of dark […]
Three days ago, I was driving back from the horses, through the lingering twilight of an August evening. On the small road of lower Dojan, Hussen Halucaj’s wife flags me down. Other than waving cheerfully in passing – I which I have to do to everyone as everyone seems to know my name and calls […]
It’s a beautiful morning. I have woken, as I usually do when alone, sometime before the sun rises. People talk about the pleasures of a good night’s sleep, but given me a broken night, any time. The sheer glee of waking – it’s dark – and fumbling for a phone (to check the time), half […]
Down came a dicky-bird, and snipped off her nose I have been thinking. As Lorelei Lee says “I seem to be thinking, practically all of the time.” Bits of thought float around my head. I’ve been reading Lord of the Rings, and perhaps more interestingly, what Tolkien himself wrote about writing it. And what Christopher […]
